Just a short journey from Sanremo, high above the Ligurian coast, lies Bussana Vecchia, a village unlike almost anywhere else on the Italian Riviera. Its stone lanes, roofless ruins, workshops and art studios tell a story of destruction, reinvention and creative independence. Often described as an artists’ village, Bussana Vecchia has become a haven for people drawn to an unconventional way of life.
A village transformed by an earthquake
On 23 February 1887, a devastating earthquake struck western Liguria. Bussana was badly damaged, and its residents eventually moved to a new settlement closer to the coast, now known as Bussana Nuova. The old hilltop village was left largely abandoned. Broken walls, damaged churches and empty houses stood as reminders of the disaster for decades.
Rather than being completely rebuilt as an ordinary residential village, Bussana Vecchia gradually acquired a very different identity. Its damaged architecture remains an essential part of its atmosphere today.
A refuge for artists and free spirits
In the late 1950s and early 1960s, artists and other creative people began settling among the ruins. They restored spaces where they could, established workshops and created a community centered on art, craftsmanship and shared ideals. Painters, sculptors, ceramicists and makers found inspiration in the village’s unusual setting.
This was not simply an exercise in preserving old buildings. Bussana Vecchia became a place associated with artistic experimentation and a degree of independence from conventional urban life. The community has also faced long-running questions over property rights, safety and its legal status, making its history more complicated than the romantic image of a carefree artists’ colony.
What to see in Bussana Vecchia
Much of the pleasure of visiting comes from walking through the narrow passages and discovering details at your own pace. You may encounter galleries, studios, handcrafted objects, colorful doorways and small cafés. Some buildings remain visibly ruined, while others have been adapted for contemporary use.
The remains of the village’s historic church are especially evocative, offering a reminder of the earthquake and the community that once lived here. From different points around the village, you can also enjoy views towards the surrounding hills and the Mediterranean.
Remember that Bussana Vecchia is not an open-air museum. It is a place where people live and work. Respect private spaces, ask before photographing artists or their work, and be mindful that opening hours for studios can vary.
How to visit from Sanremo
Bussana Vecchia is only a few kilometres east of central Sanremo, making it suitable for a half-day excursion. A car or taxi can be convenient, although access and parking close to the historic village may be limited. Local bus services can bring you towards the Bussana area, but the final approach may involve an uphill walk; check current routes and stops before leaving.
Wear comfortable shoes because the village has uneven stone surfaces, slopes and steps. Summer afternoons can be hot, so bring water and consider visiting earlier or later in the day.
Why Bussana Vecchia is worth the trip
While Sanremo is known for its beaches, casino and music festival, Bussana Vecchia reveals another side of the Riviera: quieter, rougher around the edges and shaped by people who saw possibilities in abandoned places. It is a memorable destination for travelers interested in history, photography, architecture and the creative spirit. Come without rushing, explore respectfully and let the village’s unusual story unfold as you wander.